The Short Life of a Disaster

Just before 5am I wake to the thump, thump sound of helicopter blades and the roar of C130 engines. Day after day the same routine.

We live about two kilometres from the Cebu airport on Mactan Island and the sound easily carries.

So I don't forget. About a hundred kilometres to the north of us there are people living in dire circumstances. I have heard that there are now enough supplies but the distribution is the problem. I have a feeling of inevitability as I realise that these people, like others all over the world have been neglected by the one institution that they believed would look after them ... the government.

But once again a government has failed.

Any belief that their democracy would be their salvation has again been dashed. So I wonder, what will it take for abused populations to eventually rise up in their own "Arab spring"?

I have great respect for the people who have very little, but who care enough about the even less fortunate. Day after day they make sacrifices. My mind wanders back to my days of selling university rag magazines in the poor areas of Durban where an obviously poor person would hesitantly approach. Not having enough money to buy a magazine but still wanting to make a donation ... I gave him a magazine anyway.

Quite frankly most democratic societies are stuffed up. Borrowed to the hilt. Fat cat politicians sacrificing the future to make themselves look good. Excuses, excuses and blame. While all around there are signs of failure ... poverty, homelessness, degeneration of values (and not only currencies), irrational controls, more and more laws.

Western populations in a feeding frenzy. With little consideration for the future but driven by an insatiable drive to consume. These warped values being adopted by the "middle class" of all developing nations

And for the bulk of the world population more and more despair.

The politicians around the world keep pushing a failed democracy agenda.

My message today to those who are fortunate enough to be reading this blog. Remember how priviledged you are. There are many today who had their lives ripped way from them. Tonight, and for many more nights to come, they will go to sleep hungry and homeless ... everything they worked for destroyed.

Together with their trust?

Weird Sounds in the Night .... could it be a Tokay Gekko?

Since arriving in the Phillipines we have often heard a weird sound in the early evening or at night ... hard to describe but somewhere between a croak and a squawk!!

We couldn't work it out, but thought it was probably some kind of a bird.

But our interpretation of natures call was seriously wrong ... the sound was made by a gekko!! The tokay gekko.

Carol is very glad she now knows what it is ...  as at about 30 to 50 cm long it must be an imposing little creature. Also if confronted in the house, it is rumoured that it will jump at you and run up your body to escape ... apparently at this moment you resemble a tree!!

Have a look at this video and then you'll hear why it's also known as the "f--k you" gekko (which was the name given to it by American troops).

My very thought as I listened to one as I lay in bed last night.

A Haircut in Cebu

After being here for about 5 weeks it was time to get a haircut. So on Saturday afternoon a friend and I headed off to the nearest Gaisano mall.

He has recently moved from the Philippines to a town just outside Zurich in Switzerland and is suffering badly from cost of living increase shock. So as a result he arrived here with a long, long shopping list.

We went into the hairdresser, which was very busy, some people having their haircut, others sat comfortably while their feet were being indulged in a pedicure. It all seemed very festive and noisy. 

On being told that there was a 30 minute wait we rushed off to the department store to fill his list. As we walked away I noticed another hairdresser nearby which didn't seem to be so busy but was told "we won't go there, it is much more expensive than where we have booked". 

The list had been detailed by his wife and teenage sons. Soon he was darting around from section to section finding the right items in the right brands and colours. After completing a hectic half hour shop we headed back to the hairdresser. Just in time as we were next on the list.

I sat down and had my normal "just tidy it up" haircut which to my surprise was followed by a short head, neck and shoulder massage.

Thanking the young hairdresser I proceeded to the counter to pay. "Thank you sir, 50 pesos". I couldn't believe it. The equivalent of about $1.25!!

As we walked away I asked my friend "how much is a cut at the expensive hairdresser?" he replied casually "80 pesos" (less than $2).

That haircut and massage was certainly outstanding value and a good experience. I'll be back there again. 

TV License - South Africa

This is my reply to the regular letter I have been receiving for the last few months. Initially it was persistent SMS's but now it seems we have the "nice guy"approach.

"Good day Frank (The Operations Manager)

I'm not sure if anyone ever reads these mails, but if they do, they must have a problem understanding English.

Before leaving South Africa I wasted a good 15 minutes of my valuable time explaining to one of your customer service representatives (sic) that I didn't have a TV set and was therefore not paying a license fee. She then went on getting more and more aggressive about paying fines, going to jail and being pursued by the law till the end of my days.

When I informed her I was going to live in the Philippines, she said something to the effect that they would deliver the summons wherever I lived. I think she may have been under the impression that the Philippines was a section of Phoenix, Mitchells Plain or Alberton!!!

However if she has been watching the news recently (probably a bad assumption?) she may have realised where it is.

IN SIMPLE TERMS I DO NOT HAVE A TV, DO NOT LIVE IN SOUTH AFRICA AND THEREFORE WILL NOT BE PAYING FOR A LICENSE WHICH I PAID DILIGENTLY FOR YEARS.

If there is anyone there who may be interested - the Philippines is on the other side of the world, it has 7 200 islands and nearly 100 million people. So your inspectors, who can't even locate genuine license offenders in Gamalake are going to have an interesting time finding me and delivering my summons.

Have a wonderful day

Best regards"

Dear MR MILLERD

As from 1 September 2013 the annual licence fee will cost R265.00 per annum. Concessionary licence holders will only pay R74 per annum (people over the age of 70 years and recipients of a social pension from the Department of Social Development may apply for such licences).

FINAL NOTICE TO PAY TELEVISION LICENCE: 411972821 The above matter has reference. As one of our valued licence holders who have paid regularly in the past, we have noticed that payment has not yet been made on your television licence account. Currently, your balance on this account is R318.00. Kindly settle the outstanding amount by no later than 2013/11/30. Should you wish to pay via monthly or annual debit order please respond to this email and we will send you a debit order application form; Payment arrangements for the settlement of the balance may also be made - please reply to this e-mail for such arrangements. Should you wish to pay your licence via credit card directly on the TV Licences internet website, follow this link to access the payment site. Alternatively, you may pay at any of the other pay points listed on our website (tvlic.co.za). Whichever payment method you choose, please quote your TV licence number 411972821 as reference. Should you require any further assistance, please reply to this email or phone our Contact Centre on 011 330 9706 during office hours (07:30 - 16:30 on weekdays and 08:00 - 13:00 on Saturdays). If already paid in the last 7 days please ignore this letter. Pay yours and make a difference. Kind regards Frank Awuah Operations Manager

Contrasting Life in Mactan Island Cebu - Philippines

Like towns and cities in most developing, or so called 3rd world, economies both Cebu City and Lapu-Lapu City on Mactan Island show a dramatic and stark contrast between rich and poor.

But here it is some how different from what I've experienced before. Here it is so close you can touch it and  it smacks you in the face ... and at times also in the nose!

Look left from the wooden shack

First world malls within a few meters of filthy, shanty dwellings. Shacks and businesses side by side. Roadside restaurants and meat stalls (small fans whirring away to keep away flies) next to the vulcanizer (tyre shop) side by side with hairdressers, bakeries and small general merchandise shops behind metal grilles.

Pristine gardens within metres of filthy heaps of stinking rubbish.

The latest, often obscene, SUV's carrying one or two people bullying their way through tricycles, motorcycles (carrying whole families) and jeepneys crowded (with up to 25 people) ... all so overloaded. Belching smoke and weaving randomly ... seemingly so disorganized but somehow it works.

The view from the shack

The Philippines, together with Brazil, has one marked difference from all other third world countries.  A massive proportion of the population is Roman Catholic. There is no doubt that the church's stance on birth control has exacerbated the population growth problem and as you look around there is no doubt that the children are becoming casualties.

Casualties of a system which is doomed to failure.

Like all life here the church and its doctrine and dogma creates another stark contrast. The discipline and structure of the church with the total lack of consideration and virtual anarchy on the streets. The opulence of the church compared to the poverty of the people.

Overloaded with children

The church with its rigid and uncompromising stance on birth control efectively spawning millions of children who have to be fed and educated. However whatever their hardships and uncertainty a vast majority of the population maintains their steadfast faith.

Everywhere you go there are young women (children) with babies, others pregnant ...  more and more children.

At what point do you become skeptical and question the concept of your faith? Or is it so strong that you can ignore the reality around you.

What is a Normal Life After a Super Typhoon?

What a contrast of normal. 

In a completely selfish and self centred way I was happy that since Typhoon Yolanda our life in Cebu is back to normal ... we have power and the internet connected.

While less than 100 kilometres away there is total destruction - houses have been flattened, families ripped apart, children left are orphans, husbands with no wives, no food, no water - and I'm happy that I have an internet connection!! People now surviving in a dark, rudimentary shelter, their lives ripped apart by one of the biggest and most ferious typhoons to have made land fall.

To put it in some perspective especially for people in the United States, Haiyan was about 3 times larger, and 3 times more damaging than the East Coast US “Sandy”.  Also, Haiyan was much larger than the well known Gulf of Mexico Hurricane, Katrina. 

Hitting the city of Tacloban with full force there was total devastation.

Many people lived close to the sea and many lived in shacks or shanties. They had no way of defending themselves against 320 kph winds or 3 meter waves of water. Two weeks later ... refugees are living in makeshift camps in Cebu and rescuers are just making it to remote islands. 

Refief is limited and government credibility is low. There are concerns that relief money may end up in government officials pockets. They are already in the midst of the "pork barrel" scam where billions of pesos earmarked for social projects found their way into gaping pockets of corruption ... so with millions of dollars of flowing in for relief, why not now? 

It is really sad when, at times like this, people can be suspected of "stealing" money from their own destitute victims. Children have been left orphans ... and spend their days abandoned and lonely.

So life after a super typhoon is very different depending on your circumstances ... there is no doubt that the poor are always the major victims of any major disaster.

Sumilon Island

Sumilon Island. The absolute picture post card view that you so often see in travel magazines and on travel programs.

Situated a few kilometres off the south east of Cebu island it a very small island (about 3 kilometers by 1 kilometer) which makes up one the 7 000 islands of the Philippines. It is the home of the Sumilon Blue Hotel which as soon as you arrive completely fits ones imagination of a tropical island resort.

Bangka

We travelled by private shuttle bus from home on Mactan Isand on All Saints Day. This was a bad mistake as tens of thousands of people migrate to their home towns and travel around the country to vist the graves of departed family members. Traffic is normally messy but this was nightmarish. Our trip of about 100kms took four and a half hours ... a slowish bike pace!!

However this long, but for me, not too boring trip ended at an open air lounge on the beach. Here we were welcomed (I quite like the "Sir Patrick" bit) by a very pleasant hotel representative and a delicious glass of cold iced tea. After a few formalities we joined about 15 other people who were also waiting for the next scheduled bangka to take us across to Sumilon island.

Porters arriving

On schedule, the bangka arrived and the very smart crew of porters came ashore. As we sauntered down to the jetty they collected our bags and loaded them. I'm not quite sure how, but the correct bags landed up in our room on the island.

On arrival we were met by the island hotel representatives who handed us a very welcome cold facecloth. We were then led up through the open dining area to our room. Ours wasn't just a room it was a villa - the honeymoon suite and we were the first guests in the brand new suite.

Totally fenced in it had its own splash pool and small garden with a view over the amazing crystal clear blue sea.

Bangka - off to Semilan

After lunch we decided to do some snorkelling which was very enjoyable ... but also took a bit of getting used to. Treading water while trying to clear water out of the goggles was definitely not my strong point.

This was greatly improved once Mark gave us the advice to "blow air out of your nostrils" when the mask is in place ... the theory being that the mask is now sucked on to your face.

Although the coral quite sparse and damaged as a result of a typhoon earlier in the year I still found it fascinating. The colours, shapes and characters of the tiny fish as they swam in and out of the protection of the coral was mesmerising.

After that it was time to eat again!

Villa view at Night

Walk on Sumilon Island

The one disappointing aspect of this expensive resort is that they seem to miss the little things - especially with the drinks. Imagine, on our first night ... no white wine!!

I found the food acceptable but not outstanding. Maybe it has to do with having very few Western visitors as most of the other vistors appeared to be Koreans or Japanese.

The following day we had an interesting walk around the island. The first part was tricky. The path was along a high cliff and the rock was very rough and jagged - volcanic? Once we made the end of the island the return was a welcome flat and easy relief ... as by this time it was pretty hot and humid.

The massage room

We went snorkelling again in another area on the other side of the island ...  it was magic. There were gardens of coral and schools of little fish darting around. We had also grasped the basic skills and the time just evaporated. 

I had planned to do a introductory dive the following day but late in the afternoon started feeling dizzy and nauseous. This led to being "man down" and me missing dinner. I felt horrible for a few hours but started feeling a lot better during the night.

Consequently my introductory dive was replaced with an hour long massage - which was a very suitable alternative.  Mark did the dive and loved it. So maybe next time.

On our way back to Cebu -
sea slightly rougher

After an early lunch we headed off to the bangka jetty for our trip back to Cebu island. Noticing with interest that without a payment receipt your luggage will not be loaded!!

Then our drive home. The traffic was certainly better and we were home in less than two and a half hours.

As we headed home through the messy traffic I was wondering, where did the three days go to?

Living Through Super Typhoon Yolanda.

 9:00am. We are waiting. The power wentout about an hour ago ... so no internet and also no internet on my phone. The cities around us have been shut down so this “brown out” could last all day.

It has been raining off and on since last night but so far nothing very heavy.

The mess left by Typhoon Yolanda - 100 kms from the epicentre!

If the typhoon follows the path that it was expected to it will pass the closest to us (less than 100kms away) in about 4 or 5 hours time.  Just to understand the size of Yolanda – the has a diameter of about 600 kms.

The wind has picked up noticeably and the front screen door has slammed a few times as stronger gusts pump through. The lounge floor is damp as the wind drives the rain across the carport and through the gauze screen.

I recall that yesterday I noticed that in a number of places branches were being cut off trees. Now I realize why.

Outside a maid is following her daily routine and sweeping the leaves on the road. It seems pointless as the wind freshens and more leaves fall and debris is blown around.

The conditions seem ominous – grey, heavy skies, gusting winds and the never ending sound of the rain. One is expectant. This is not like the massive earthquake we experienced a few weeks ago.

Although the earthquake was violent – it was sudden and occurred on a sunny morning on a public holiday. This is relentless and will last for many hours. 

My thoughts go out to all the people who are living in wooden shacks. Many with no windows and leaking roofs, having to wait in anticipation … and hope that they wont be too badly affected.

However the path of the eye as it moves from west to east through the Philippines will pass through a number of populated areas. With winds of up to 300kph there has to be some serious damage.

11:00am. The sky is darker. The sound of the rain is relentless and clatters noisily on the plastic roof. The wind has freshened significantly and the front door is closed. Most of the windows have been closed but at times you hear them banging in their frames as the gusts get stronger.

This tree was at least 10m tall - snapped off at the roots. One of 3 in our sub-division

I am certainly glad that I’m indoors and not out there.

There is evidence of the wind strength as you look up the road and see the litter of small branches that have been ripped down. On the upstairs verandah the lounger is upside down.

A few stairs have large puddles of water which are now overflowing downstairs. It’s certainly surprising how much rain can be blown through a sliding door gap of only a centimeter or two.

1:00pm. The worst is obviously over. The rain is spitting and the wind is brisk with quite strong gusts.  After a short walk outside the damage is evident. Large branches have been ripped from trees.

A number of large trees completely uprooted. A few people are out sawing away at the fallen trees that are blocking the roads. Not a chain saw in sight.

Littered around one tree are a number of large coconut sized nuts. Definitely not something to land on ones head! A loose piece of corrugated iron flaps noisily in the wind.

If this is the damage in our subdivision I’m sure that outside there must be some significant devastation.

Thanks to a gas cooker we can boil water for tea or coffee during power outages. But right now (quite selfishly) all we would like is for the power to be turned on.

Third World Parallels

As I read this newspaper article I realised wherever it refers to the "Philippines" you could change the reference to "South Africa" or many other so called developing third world countries. 

There needs to be massive internal changes if these kinds of countries ever aspire to lead their people out of poverty and for their countries to ever be a success.

The Philippines a Rotting Culture of Graft and Corruption A PhilNews.com Edtorial As it exists today, the Philippines can never become a great nation…at least not in our lifetime.  Why? The answer is because from an outsider’s perspective, we are a nation of liars and thieves.  Or if that sounds too harsh, we are a nation made up mostly of liars and thieves and a small minority of non-liars and non-thieves who prefer to look the other way or bury their heads in the sand. An American friend of this author, related what he thought was a funny little incident at a Jollibee restaurant in Manila. He and his Filipina friend ordered lunch and one peach-mango pie for dessert. Their complete meal was delivered to them at their table a few of minutes later. Then a second waiter delivered another peach-mango pie to their table. My foreigner friend was about to tell the waiter they already received their pie when his Filipina friend tapped him on the knee and stared at him to stop him in mid-sentence. As far as she was concerned, if the restaurant wanted to give them another pie (which cost around 60 cents US) for free, that was fine with her. Even though that foreigner thought nothing much of it and most likely has forgotten the incident by now, to this author, it is emblematic of Philippine culture today. We lack scruples and if we know we can get away with it, we’ll do it. Over the decades, that attitude has allowed for this every-person for-himself mindset that permeates Philippine society today. People no longer even question why Filipino politicians are so filthy rich nowadays. Gone is the time when a Senator or Congressman would take a taxi to work. Today they live in high walled mansions and are driven around in big bulletproof SUVs accompanied by a phalanx of heavily armed bodyguards.  One wonders how they can afford to build 500-million-peso mansions in high-end subdivisions like Wack-wack when they work full-time as legislators? Also, how does a political family from a dirt-poor region of Mindanao amass a fortune fit for a king?  The answer is simple: there is a lot of dirty money to be made in politics! In the Philippines today, even the lowly position of Barangay Tanod(barangay peace and security officer) is a highly sought-after post. This is because played right even a tanod can make a lot of money on the side. Become a police officer of any city and make even more money. Corruption in law enforcement is so pervasive today that walking into any police precinct is like walking into a den of thieves. Any cop that ever harbored noble notions of duty and service to the community has long since left the force in disgust, been driven away, or killed. The only ones left today are the kotong cops—those who use their position to shake-down their victims—and cops who operate behind the scenes taking “cuts” from all manner of illicit activity in their area. Sadly, corruption in the Philippines is not limited to just politicians and policemen. Everyone seems motivated by pure greed in the dog-eat-dog culture that has taken hold in the country. Thus, even a simple straightforward business transaction that in other countries would sail through uneventfully becomes a tedious mess in the Philippines as everyone involved has their own little agenda on the side.  And if that isn’t enough, all parties still have to deal with local government bureaucrats who sit on the necessary permits or paperwork unless they get their “grease money.” One can of course bypass all the hassle and get things done quickly by using a “fixer” or “expediter” who will speed things up for a fee—of course. Given all the foregoing, can the Philippines ever become a first-world country? The simple answer is no.  The country will continue to fall further and further behind until a new generation can completely sever its ties to everything that Filipinos of today stand for or believe in.  And those men and women who will finally turn this country around: they have not even been born yet—and won’t be for generations to come.  Published 10/30/2013